Did Khaite look a little too closely at Saint Laurent for their F/W24 inspiration?

the winners and losers of my self-proclaimed runway rumble

I know we’re more than halfway into February, I’d even go as far as to say we’re at the end of it. So, this content feels, well, critically delayed (like edging on being obsolete) but it can’t be helped. February after all is always a whirlwind. It’s the actual start of my year, when all the celebratory engagements for my birthday have concluded, and the two things I love (being black and fashion) coincide. This is my March Madness.

As usual, I’m jumping around in thought, but follow me— I’ve been really into the bracketing system lately. Consider it my preferred type of comparative analysis. You can ask my friends, who can vouch that I continually subject them to a bracketed mental spreadsheet of potential suitors in their lives (only a little sorry about it). I’ve decided that if I can bracket your future boyfriend, then why not your future wardrobe cues too?

Now coming up to speed, I’ve gone and looked back at every NYFW show about 7 times. I’ve also gone ahead and made a playlist of whichever shows I could find (*click*), because clothes are meant to be moved in, so I always prefer watching over images.

Finally, down below, I’ve dropped my top-line takes on each of the my stand-out shows, and from there, set up a bracket for what I think are fairly paired sets of shows. At the end of MFW I’ll reveal the NYFW winner and we’ll keep going until the 4 fashion cities face-off in my fantasy playoff.

NYFW F/W 2024:

⭑ Helmut Lang - I know there’s some contention around this CD appointment, but I really like Peter Do for Helmut Lang. The utilitarianness of the pieces converges with the archival Chinatown plaids. A definite nod back to Lang’s legacy, but with even more delightful tailoring.

⭑ Tommy Hilfiger - I sometimes hate how much I love a Tommy collection. The playful preppy nature of the styling taps into a variant of All-Americana that we have grown to love, and also love to hate. I mean, it’s so easy, so regular, so white-picket-fence, so ready to wear, and is that not the goal of this all?

⭑ Proenza Schouler - This show feels totally paired down for Proenza, even considering they are no strangers to monochrome looks. Still, it’s stripped down but refined. The fearless sheer strikes again, not to mention, the cowl necks of my dream. 3 cheers for the caps at the end too.

⭑ Cucculelli Shaheen - At the conjuction of all my weird side-interests lies Cucculelli Shaheen. Astrology, petticoats, statement sleeves, and frivolous gloves. Kinda obsessed, and now in need of an invite to some fancy gala.

© Now Fashion

⭑ Eckhaus Latta - I occasionally pass by the EL store and often think too cool for school (and me) silhouettes. Their show was no different. And if that’s no brand identity I don’t know what is. Plus it’s solidified by the presence of one Cole Mohr on the runway (be still me tweenage heart).

⭑ Anna Sui - Oh Anna, there’s no one quite like Anna. She always seems to know exactly the flavor of fashion I’m looking to satiate me. Don’t get lost in the plethora of prints and patterns. This shows all about identifying a piece and deconstructing a look. Also, was that Debbie Harry??

⭑ Monse - YES SPACE OFFICE GIRLS, GO!!! The UFO motifs feel like an alien’s version of a “I Love NY”. Iconique.

⭑ Khaite - 1st impression: pretty dark, a moody show, like war flashbacks to banging shins on displays in Hollister and Desigual dark. I get the clothes should be able to do the talking, but you’ve gotta see the clothes no? 2nd: uh….. didn’t Saint Laurent literally already do this exact show recently? (S/S23) Am I the only one that sees the overlap? Okay girl, I guess imitation is the best form of flattery or whatever. (I still like some looks though).

© Now Fashion

⭑ Ulla Johnson - What a pleasant show, with these beautiful gender-blurring looks. This reminds me to question limited thinkers who attribute gender to pieces of fabric. Also, look number six took me OUT. Well done on patterns as well Ms. Johnson!

⭑ Altuzarra - I’ve got absolutely no business liking this Mayflower-core as much as I do. I’ll let the perfectly understated (with a touch of doing too much) collection speak for itself.

⭑ Carolina Herrera - Genuinely gorgeous, and kind of elegantly empowering? After spending a morning in Wes Gordon’s presence as he discussed the impact of strong, impactful older women in his life, it becomes apparent that his admiration, thoughtfulness, and pleasant nature are present in his work. We also love to see Lulu leading the pack.

⭑ Puppets & Puppets - There’s something different and exciting (dear I say fun) happening and I want more of it. Sadly, it seems the designer has bid this the last P&P runway show and an end to clothing-centric designing to maintain a sustainable business.

© Now Fashion

⭑ Tory Burch - Miss Tory came to each the bitches up, and I for one am very pleased. There’s experimentation and unseen risk-taking (for TB) in the air. Great use of various materials, and Irina closing the show is always a win in my books.

⭑ Michael Kors - This is the most neutral collection I’ve seen from MK in a while, it almost feels dated in that it should have been the collection from 2 seasons ago. Still, I like it quite a lot.

⭑ Brandon Maxwell - Absolutely stunning. I think Maxwell is a genius with fabrics, draping, and cuts. Nearly everything he designs looks good, wearable, and like a version of the chill put-together adult, I’d like to be if I ever decide to tone it down.

⭑ Thom Browne - I’m fucking obsessed, excuse my French, but like!!! This collection is positively buggy in that funky Tim Burton kind of way. It feels as if someone nightmare-before-christimas-afied a Chanel show, and I’m losing it, I’m obsessed. The ensembles, the individual pieces!! All delectable.

© Now Fashion

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I’m rounding off with some honorable/noteworthy/deplorable mentions:

•This one falls into honorable mentions because it’s actually outside the NYFW window and is considered his S/S24 collection, but Marc Jacob’s doll house! As an avid Polly Pocket fan, I’m a little obsessed with these neoprene-esque pieces swallowing the models whole. Also how un-ready-to-wear these are has me positively tickled. Interested to see how they’ll pull these back and reinterpret for celeb and influencer appearances.

•Hmmm, Collina Strada feels super Priscavera coded, with a hint of trad-wife. Would be interested in seeing the inspiration deck and what else informed the collection. You can just tell we’re in war times by all the subverted baby/pregnancy/LDS imagery we’re being fed by the media and algor.

•Sandy Liang…. It’s fine. Just fine. Where’s that girl from TikTok who described Sandy Liang as having Sandy Liang on its own mood board? This is giving exactly that. I will quell my SL frustration at another date. For now, I nod and move along.

•Ludovic De Saint Sernin - Okieeee…. Serve.

•Frederick Anderson - There were some pieces here that I really enjoyed the silhouettes of. Also into this 70s style collection, even paired with this Joan Jett hairstyle.

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Question for y’all: Should I include polls throughout these for LFW, MFW and PFW, or is this letter dreadfully long enough? TBD… Alright, that’s it. And this is my graceful goodbye. If I spend any more time writing here, I’ll surely cry.

Until the next one, happy dressing. xx

Devi