Paris is Burning
That is to say, on fire. We are sooo back, baby.
There’s an elephant in the room, and it’s wearing red, white, and blue.
For the past two trend cycles, designers have toyed with politics—sometimes subtly, sometimes by accident. But this season, Paris turned up the volume—loud and unmistakably pointed at America.
For the first time in a long time, it feels like something is happening during fashion month. Maybe it’s the wars waging around the globe or the stars aligning in this age of Aquarius.
Whatever the reason, designers are dressing for a world on edge, some defiant, deliberate, and quietly reflective.
Here are my Horde Haus edits, inspired by the collections that left an impression—all pieces I’ve been eyeing on my fave, Farfetch.
Saint Laurent Edit: Anthony Vaccarello’s 10th season at Saint Laurent was a total nod to Yves Saint Laurent’s signature power suit—a clear declaration that "a bitch is back," and she means business. It felt like a modern-day Rosie the Riveter: a statement on showing up, doing the work, and refusing to fade into the background, whether in the boardroom or on the streets. The closing looks, a series of palatial ballgowns, reminded us that labor and leisure can coexist.
Valentino Edit: Ringling Bros. and Barnum & Bailey Circus, but reimagined—clownish, gaudy, and unapologetic. It reminded me to thank my grandmother for her furs (except that she’s from Jamaica where fur was more likely spotted on a mongoose than in her wardrobe). It’s fascinating to watch Alessandro Michele weave his distinctive style into Valentino. His aesthetic is present without relying on overt brand logos, like during his tenure at Gucci. Still very much Alessandro.
Isabel Marant Edit: Fishnets, mini skirts, and flannel—someone (Isabel Marant) took me back to the best part of 2015. Marant’s take on nostalgia feels lived-in rather than rehearsed, tapping into that era’s penchant for flirting with rebellion without feeling dated or overdone.
Hermès Edit: Utilitarian safari meets pseudo horse girl. Except, the boots are spurless and entirely unsuitable for riding. Think rugged yet refined, wherein functional details are balanced with tailored silhouettes. And all in the best fabrication.
Ann Demeulemeester Edit: No notes. Just one of my favorite collection out of Paris this season. Be still my Pirates of the Caribbean loving heart.
Alexander McQueen Edit: Nature is returning, and it appears that Alexander McQueen is, too. The whole collection reads like a haunting procession of birds of prey and pleasure circling the enticing angel trumpet blooms. Though for both, the same ending awaits, and death bides its time.
Balenciaga Edit: Severance chic. The loaf of bread on my counter has more emotional capacity than this collection. What a season for Demna to depart on—bleak, uninspired, and oddly fitting of the times.
Coperni Edit: Lara Croft’s Tomb Raider meets James Jemima Bond—coded with an air of seduction, ready to meet the battle wherever it is: tundra, seaside, or dance floor. You’ll be hard pressed to find a Coperni girl without a pocket.
Chanel Edit: When you take tweed and make it tactile, you’ll be left with this current collection from Chanel, constructed by the in-house designers, who tastefully merged the military uniform with the tulle and pearls we all love and expect from the house. Utilitarian silhouettes seen under the ghostly sheer layers of puffed sleeves, floor-length skirts, and exaggerated bows.
Gabriela Hearst Edit: A Joan of Arc arc—leathers and scale-like layering evoking armor before battle. My kind of practical. A textural feast for the eyes.
Louis Vuitton Edit: Nicolas Ghesquière explored duality this season. Practical textiles like flannel are juxtaposed with luxurious fabrics cut into workwear silhouettes, highlighting that refinement and utility aren’t mutually exclusive. The best people have a little bit of grit and glamour.
And if you’re still wondering whether fashion’s newfound boldness has anything to do with politics, look no further than the color story sweeping Paris runways.
Last season’s aversion to wearing red seems to have faded. Nearly every show this PFW incorporated the color. Red, once a warning sign, is now a power move—a declaration that designers are done biting their tongues.
Paris is speaking. Are we listening?